Da Nang's icon: 666 metres of golden dragon stretched over the Han River. At night it shimmers with changing lights.
Time: Fire and water show on Saturdays and Sundays at 21:00
Insider tip: The dragon's head faces the sea, so stand near it. Just not in the front row: it's generous with the water 😄
Photo: . Ray in Manila, CC BY 2.0
🏖 My Khe Beach
A long city beach with soft sand. Locals swim here in the morning; by midday it's almost empty because of the heat.
Price: Free; sunbed prices are negotiable
Insider tip: The best times are 5:30 to 8:00 and after 16:00. A red flag means no swimming: the currents here are strong.
Photo: Daderot, CC0
🛍 Han Market
A covered market in the centre: coffee, dried fruit, souvenirs and fabric. Upstairs you'll find clothes and tailors.
Insider tip: Offer half the asking price and calmly walk away: they often call you back with a fair one.
Photo: Christophe95, CC BY-SA 4.0
🥢 Con Market
A market for locals, not tourists. Inside is a food court with the most honest street food in town.
Insider tip: Eat wherever Vietnamese people are perched on tiny plastic stools. That's the only quality seal you need.
Photo: Christophe95, CC BY-SA 4.0
🙏 Linh Ung Pagoda (Son Tra)
On the Son Tra Peninsula stands a 67-metre statue of the Goddess of Mercy, with views over the whole of Da Nang Bay.
Price: Free entry
Insider tip: Cover your shoulders and knees: it's a temple. You may meet monkeys on the way, so keep your snacks out of sight.
Photo: Viethavvh at vi.wikipedia, Public domain
⛰ Marble Mountains
Five limestone peaks full of caves, pagodas and viewpoints. Inside the caves are altars lit by beams of light through the cracks.
Price: Entry is cheap; the lift is extra (check at the ticket desk)
Insider tip: Wear comfy shoes and bring water. The best cave is Huyen Khong: come before noon, when the light pours in from above.
What to eat
🍜 Mi Quang — Wide rice noodles in just a splash of broth, with prawns, pork, herbs and a rice cracker. The signature dish of the region. Where to try it: Breakfast at any local eatery
🥢 Cao Lau — Chewy noodles that, by tradition, are made only in Hoi An. Pork, crunchy croutons and lots of herbs. Where to try it: Hoi An only: try it at the night market
🥖 Banh mi — The Vietnamese stuffed baguette. Crunchy, fragrant and about the price of a bus ticket. Where to try it: Banh Mi Phuong in Hoi An or any street cart
🥞 Banh xeo — A crispy pancake with prawns. Wrap it in rice paper with herbs and dip it in the sauce. Where to try it: Dinner at local cafés in Da Nang
🍲 Pho — The classic: broth, rice noodles, beef or chicken. Add lime, chilli and herbs to taste. Where to try it: Everywhere, but it's best in the morning
☕ Iced coffee with condensed milk — Strong Vietnamese coffee dripped through a phin filter, with condensed milk and ice. Warning: highly addictive. Where to try it: At any coffee shop, especially one with a view
When to go
North (Hanoi, Ha Long, Ninh Binh, Sapa): Cool and overcast in winter; hot, humid and typhoon-prone in summer.
Centre (Da Nang, Hoi An, Hue, Nha Trang): Best sea from March to August. October–November brings downpours and flooding in Hoi An.
South (Ho Chi Minh City, Phu Quoc): Hot all year round. Dry with a calm sea from December to April.
Southern highlands (Da Lat): Eternal spring: 22–25 °C by day and chilly at night, so pack a jumper. Dry from December to April; short afternoon showers in summer.
Entry & documents
An e-visa for up to 90 days is open to all nationalities: apply on the official portal (evisa.gov.vn) a few days ahead. Some passports also get visa-free entry, so check whether yours does. You'll need a passport valid for 6+ months and a return ticket. Check the current rules for your passport before you travel.
Local etiquette
👟 Take your shoes off before entering someone's home. At temples, spas and some shops, check the doorstep: if there's a pile of shoes, add yours to it.
🤲 Give and receive money, gifts and business cards with both hands, especially when dealing with older people.
😊 Stay calm and keep smiling, even when haggling or when something goes wrong. Raising your voice means losing face, while a calm smile gets you almost anywhere.
🥢 Don't leave your chopsticks standing upright in a bowl of rice: it looks like the incense sticks offered to the dead. Rest them across the bowl or on a holder instead.
🙅 Don't touch anyone's head, not even a child's: it's considered the most sacred part of the body.
☝️ Don't beckon anyone with a crooked finger or your palm facing up: that's how animals are called. Wave your fingers towards you with your palm facing down.
